Canon: will an adapter with an EMF AF Confirm chip work with my vintage lens?

Yes. The EMF chip, when properly positioned and glued to an adapter ring, will perform auto focus confirmation and communicate EXIF ​​lens information (focal length, maximum aperture, and even the aperture setting used)Yes follow the right steps while shooting) on ​​a Canon EOS digital body (I've used them on an XT, 50D, and 5DMkII). The adapter ring and the lens to which it is connected do not really affect this function. The quality / fit of the adapter ring, however, is independent of the chip. The chip is sold separately from the rings, and can be pasted by anyone.

You can also refer to the EMF chip manual.

However, in my experience, AF confirmation is not as useful for pinning focus with a very thin DoF on a fast lens like Canon's "matte precision" focusing displays (if your camera body allows use one), or live view at 10x magnification or maximum focus and Magic Zoom to the Magic Lantern.

dslr – is there a way to manually add EXIF ​​information of vintage tailored lenses to my files?

The easiest way to get EXIF ​​information from the lens, such as the focal length of the lens, is to find a chip for its adapter ring that simulates a Canon EF lens, which can be programmed to send EXIF ​​information. I used to use EMF chips when I took Canon with tailored lenses, because you could iirc, also program it to include the actual aperture setting you were using at the time.

See: Will an adapter with an EMF AF Confirm chip work with my vintage lens?

But you can also add / edit lens EXIF ​​information after the fact using exiftool, or any of the GUIs that include it. Since I'm a Lightroom user, the donationware LensTagger plugin is my tool of choice as it can save information for a specific lens (and film) combo and then reload it, so if you use a number of different tailored lenses , you don't have to fill in all the fields over and over again. But it's a bit of a PITA, as you also need to make sure that Lightroom is updated after writing to the EXIF ​​files.

black and white: black and white vintage photography techniques differ in color brightness: what is happening here?

A co-worker of mine was trying to identify a movie clip of a ticker tape show, and I thought it was a World War II parade in Italy (celebrating VE Day), because the clip showed a tricolor flag with a lighter tone on the edge of the hoist (front). However, subsequent searches showed that it was the parade in New York celebrating the crossing of the Atlantic through Lindburgh, which would make the flag French, and the side of the blue hoist.

Other images of that day and general time period confirm that the blue side of the hoist definitely photographs more clearly in the black and white film of the day:
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However, the most modern digital images, desaturated from full color to black and white, show the blue field at least as dark as red, which was our expectation:
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The question for the gallery is, why? Our theories so far:

  • Lighter blue used in older French flags
  • The light is transmitted through the fabric more easily than through the red, which makes the blue field brighter according to the lighting angle
  • Rayleigh scattering of daylight increasing ambient blue light that illuminates the blue field
  • Digital desaturation at a "perfect" compensated luminance value does not match the imperfect response of the chemical film to red / blue light

Any of these in the baseball stadium?

How to get this worn vintage look?

I am a beginner in LR, I have a preset (applied to the right) and I am trying to replicate the vintagy effect. I was wondering what configuration this is? I don't even know what that is called, so I'd really appreciate your advice!

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Vintage Chargeback

If I want to make an Epoch Chargeback on a website where I bought coins, should I pay a fee?

[Get] Vintage publishing profits | Proxies123.com

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Sale page:
Code:

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http://amydebcreations.com/go/vpp-z/

Get it here ->
Code:

Hidden content:

You must respond before you can see the hidden data contained here.

This is a mirror link so you can choose the download locations. It's my favorite for smaller files.

This is my first part, so I hope I've done everything right.

In fact, I was wrong with the title, so I had to delete it and try again. :RE

vintage – No1 Pocket Kodak opening 1 to 4, f equivalent stop?

I have a cute little pocket Kodak from the twenties or thirties. It is the bottom of the range model with the "single lens". The opening is not marked in numbers f, but is labeled as 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Is there any way to know the equivalent opening of the number f to measure the exposures with the modern and fast film (Ilford Delta 400)?

I would like to use a 35mm camera as a meter, and decipher a conversion for the vintage camera. The most expensive cameras in the same range have lenses f7.9 and f6.3, so I guess it's higher than that. But I could imagine that a cheap one-element lens was quite bright, but sacrificing sharpness.

No.1 pocket Kodak lens and opening controls

I've done a lot of searching on Google, but I have not found anything. It seems that the other models in the range may have been more common than the "single lens".

I have the original manual, which includes 3 exposure tables for the 3 different lens options (individual, "Kodar f.7.9" and "Kodak Anastigmat f.6.3"), the page for the single lens is reproduced here. However, I realize that the films of the time were quite slow, so this is likely to over-expose the modern movie.

No.1 pocket Kodak single lens exposure guide

Other details of the camera. It takes 120 movies, and it seems to work. I executed an Ilford FP4 roll out of date, and I got 4 or 5 really good images, but I was guessing and exposing exhibitions in full sunlight. I think it says more about the latitude of the movie than my ability with the camera.

The plate that surrounds the lens with the shutter and opening marks has the number "27449".

If you are wondering why the bellows look strange in the photo, it is because they have some light leaks, so I put them in a black paper "vest" that seems to block them enough.

I have a new Ilford Delta 400, and I hope to take portraits with natural light indoors (a very well lit room), the same conditions with a 35mm camera, with a cheap f3.9 lens with Ilford FP4, 125 ASA has not had problems.

Interestingly, the opening is in front of the shutter, which are both in front of the lens element. When holding a ruler and squinting, I assume that the opening in setting 1 is about 8 mm in diameter, and in the setting of 4 about 2 mm.