I need to repair an application without uninstalling it. The game works very well, except a configuration. I have tried reinstalling it without uninstalling it because I am afraid of losing my progress. Can I repair the game application without uninstalling it?
My friend's MacBook Pro 2015 spilled water and it doesn't work anymore. I want to extract the files contained for him.
I removed the SSD from the Mac and connected it to my Windows 10 laptop using a USB to M.2 PCIe M-Key slot adapter + Mac SSD to M.2 PCIe M-Key slot adapter. The USB adapter now shows a steady blue light.
Trying to use both
MacDrive 10 Standard Y
HFSExplorer, I can't see the SSD. Since
Disk Management, I can see the disk (it is unknown, but it appears). I don't want to initialize the disk, because (I think) it would erase the drive.
From the MacBook Pro of my work, I can't see it at all using
I wonder if the Mac's SSD is damaged. Does anyone have any advice to prove that it is damaged? I think my hardware connections are good.
What I see
When I enter
Computer Management ->
Disk ManagementHere is what I see:
10.0.18362.1), here are the unit details:
DISKPART> select disk 1 Disk 1 is now the selected disk. DISKPART> detail disk JMicron Generic SCSI Disk Device Disk ID: 00000000 Type : USB Status : Online Path : 0 Target : 0 LUN ID : 0 Location Path : UNAVAILABLE Current Read-only State : No Read-only : No Boot Disk : No Pagefile Disk : No Hibernation File Disk : No Crashdump Disk : No Clustered Disk : No There are no volumes.
It seems that this unanswered question may be related: Recovering data from Mac PCI SSD using Windows PC?
I am trying to use Ubuntu exclusively. 90% of the time is fine, but there are so many problems from nothing.
Rambox stopped working a while ago. Nothing you do can make it work again.
The system crashes completely at least twice a week (when I use Firefox) and I have to reboot. Tonight, the Bluetooth mouse and keyboard did not respond and only the restoration of a snapshot of TimeShift solved it.
Is there any system repair or something I can run? I guess there are several corruptions that cause these discomforts, but how can I diagnose them? I am using 18.04, which I thought would be more stable to be honest.
Running – later if it seems to be useful:
I have no experience of this particular camra.
But, working on general principles.
The slots in A and B are lock slots.
A pin enters the slot when the door is closed and then moves to the locked position below the top when the door moves sideways.
The red arrows in A show the path the body lock pin would take to unlock. The door moves in the opposite direction. BUT it is not obvious that there is a B-pin or flange that works in slot B. Slot A can be locked under the edge of the body in E. Or the door can be used in several models and the locks in A and B MAY not be used.
A lock that is used is in
C with the real lok tab in D. This works with the H-curvature blocking arm. The G-arm with its shape shown by a vent line is inserted into the space in C and the type slides under D when the door slides in lock position.
It is not obvious what happened in your case, but if this were my camera, I would consider doing the following.
Hold the camera upside down in the right hand and hit the top part hard on my left hand so that there is a cushioned but solid impact. Repeat several times. This has the effect of driving the batteries to the body and CAN eliminate an obstruction.
Insert a thin, rigid metal object in H along the purple arrow line. A nail file or a piece of spring steel (as used in some large wooden boxes such as strapping when shipped). The goal is to work between the door and the H-hook and try to release the sliding action of the lock.
Try to pry with a thin metal object between the body and the door (outside the body side of A) to try to move the door in the unlocking direction. Touching the camera gently but firmly while trying this can help.
With a drill about 6 mm in diameter, drill (Really!) On the outside door next to point D so you can see and access the tip of the H lock WITHOUT DAMAGING it. Once you have just passed through the outer wall of the door, you can use a hand drill or a larger drill (10 mm upwards to enlarge the hole without damaging the H-hook. This allows you to see if the hook is stuck. , if you can cut the edge around the hook H without damaging H, then, if this is the only latch, you can allow the door to open or partially open without sliding.
In addition, this hole allows you to add more force in the sliding opening direction using the edge of the hole. As long as you don't damage the G hook, everything you have for dinner is marked at the door. The hole can be easily filled.
In addition, the doors may be available at a low price on a used camera or as a spare. By attacking the door in stages, you can open it in due time and, if the camera is not damaged, you should allow a new door to be installed after determining and solving the problem if it is in the body.
Note that the two plastic D-crests are intended to stop the insertion of the reverse polarity battery. If someone were able to close the door with the wrong polarity battery there, it would insert immense pressure into the door, perhaps it would only take a lot of force to slide the door.
It is not obvious that the white material near G should have some effect. But, I may be wrong.
See photo below.
Additional: Despite the virtual phantom contractor option to the contrary, the above information may help with the opening
Given your additional information on the lock button, if it were mine, I would try to insert lever objects (such as screwdriver tips) into the areas around the stuck button and try to exert additional force in the desired direction.
So I tried to compare some images I took recently and this happened.
I was in the Library module comparing two images (icon X | Y) and this happened in one of my shots. I have checked and my GPU acceleration It is off (if that were a problem). I have also removed the Smart preview and rebuilt, without success.
I also checked using a RAW viewer that the image was corrupted. Is there any way to recover the image? The JPEG is at least intact.
TO UPDATE: The reimportation corrects it initially and then returns to that state.
UPDATE2: I have compared it to my backup, the md5 and crc32 hashes are identical and the file size is the same.
UPDATE3: Importing it into a new catalog fails and exporting it generates the same result.
UPDATE4: Tested with different RAW tools and fails. Exiftool suggests that all information be intact at least. I deleted the image from my SD card, so unfortunately I don't have the original.
UPDATE5: My other backup works and the hash check is different from the first backup. This solves my problem and gives a simple answer to just use a previous backup. That said, are there tools or techniques to recover corrupt images?
General tips on old Zeiss lenses like this:
Photograph the exact position of all the rings and their notches (also, mark the rings beforehand to avoid 180 ° confusion) with a cell phone or similar, so you can reproduce the exact positions later.
Zeiss often used adjustment rings that affect centering …
In addition, the materials used at that time tend to be fragile and the threads stick very, very firmly. Forcing the opening of such threads after 70 years can throw metal particles … be sure to clean them.
I know there are many publications on the Internet on this subject, but I have been debugging this for two days and it seems that I am not going further.
I have a Vagabond box (quite old) on my work laptop that has been configured primarily by a former colleague. Everything seems to continue working for me and my colleagues, so we have had no reason to set up a completely new one.
The Vagrant box contains a Centos installation in which we develop websites.
The host machine is Windows 10.
When I am in the office, connected to the physical network (by cable), I can use XDebug without any problem. I enable XDebug from the Firefox and XDebug browser plug-in in Centos to connect to PHPStorm in Windows, so I can go through the code.
However, when I am at home, with WIFI (I have no cable), XDebug simply does not work.
The XDebug register on the Vagrant machine currently states the following:
I: Checking remote connect back address. I: Checking header 'HTTP_X_FORWARDED_FOR'. I: Checking header 'REMOTE_ADDR'. I: Remote address found, connecting to 10.10.10.1:9000. E: Time-out connecting to client. :-(
The cause maybe?
In many posts I read that the Vagrant host address should be something like 10.0.2.2. Regarding my information in our case, it has always been 10.10.10.1.
I also read that from the Vagabond box you should verify the host IP using netstat. The host IP would be the default gateway.
netstat -rn Kernel IP routing table Destination Gateway Genmask Flags MSS Window irtt Iface 0.0.0.0 192.168.220.2 0.0.0.0 UG 0 0 0 ens32 10.10.10.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 ens33 169.254.0.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.0.0 U 0 0 0 ens33 169.254.0.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.0.0 U 0 0 0 ens34 192.168.56.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 ens34 192.168.220.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 ens32
Here the default gateway is "192.168.220.2". So I tried to configure that IP for xdebug, manually configuring XDebug & # 39; s
remote_host to 192.168.220.2 and disable
Now the record says:
I: Connecting to configured address/port: 192.168.220.2:9000. W: Creating socket for '192.168.220.2:9000', poll success, but error: Operation now in progress (29). E: Could not connect to client. :-( Log closed at 2020-01-26 08:19:34
From other publications I understood that this is in fact worse and that the IP address is incorrect.
That would say that what goes wrong is the same reason why my default gateway is set to 192.168.220.2 instead of 10.10.10.1.
However, I have no idea where to solve this, because I know that the network and VirtualBox settings are too low.
PHPStorm says I'm fine
PHPStorm has this xdebug validation screen in the configuration. Trying that happens with green checks. Apparently, does that validation not validate enough?
Interesting to note
Simultaneously, I was also trying to mount a Samba share from Windows in my Vagrant box. I wanted to experiment with that configuration, but like XDebug, the mount command cannot reach the host machine.
Your photo shows the mode selector knob in the "Night portrait" mode. Is that as far as you can physically move?
If the mode dial dial knob will not physically switch to "Video" mode, your camera is broken and needs service. There can be no other explanation as to why the knob will not move to video mode.
If the knob moves to "Video" but the camera remains stuck in "Sports," the forecast is just as bad.
The T3i / 600D body has a used value of approximately $ 200, so it may not be economically viable to repair it. It may be better to sell the body "as is" and use the money to upgrade to a newer camera.
Elixir first appeared in 2012. It is a functional programming language. José Valim built it on the Erlang virtual machine called BEAM. He made his choice for a good reason. He wanted his new programming language to be a concurrent and productive coding language just like Erlang.
The Elixir Core team maintains the source code. This team consists of José Valim, Eric Meadows-Jönsson, James Fish, Aleksei Magusev, Michał Muskała and Andrea Leopardi. The team never alters the base code until there is a mutual understanding of the changes among all members, which is favorable for Elixir programming.
There have been 96 Elixir releases since 2012. The last stable version (version 1.7.3) was in August 2018. Elixir already shows good results in its repository even though it is a young programming language.
Follow this article for more information on the Elixir programming language.
. (tagsToTranslate) AC repair (t) az (t) Phoenix
The rear element of a Zenitar 16 / 2.8 Fisheye is broken. What can I do to continue using this lens?
I to know It is a clear filter. That I can not just be eliminated because it is a essential component of this lens, hence it is The rear element. The lens is physically unable to adjust to focus to infinity without a filter present. Note that the filter is represented in the optical design:
Image of all photographic lenses.
Try to obtain a transparent replacement filter online. The filter sets available for sale consist only of color filters. Probable people sell the color filters, but keep the filter transparent for use with another copy of the lens.
Obtain a broken copy of the same lens for replacement parts. Most of the lenses sold by parts are "broken" because they are missing The rear filter
This question is do not A duplicate of the following questions.
The owners of this objective may simply face not throwing away the filter, as they would do with the objectives in the previous questions, because the filter is an essential part of the optical design.