game recommendation – Feasible engine for a world like Earthsea?

I am building a world emphasising on balance and chaos (where pretty much two sides of one coin), kind of like Earthsea.

As a consequence, the magic in D&D doesn’t work quite well with it. (powerful magic exists in my world, but unwise usage of powerful magic usually comes with deadly consequence.)

Also I want the bad consequence lasts longer, kind of like sanity in COC.

What is a feasible system for my world? Or any feasible way to modify any system to make it work? Or do I have to create one myself (I hope not)?

game recommendation – Any good RP systems out there for a Azure Lane RP?

Kinda a weird question for sure, but to put small context this all began after a small joke that got way out of hand. By the end of it I was “encouraged” to put together a one-shot campaign for Azure Lane with some friends. Looking around though at the few I know such as DnD & Pathfinder, none of those really work for something like Azure Lane.

So my question is then does anyone have some good recommendations regarding a RP system to use for a Azure Lane focused setting and mechanics?

equipment recommendation – Need advice on buying a landscape lens


The popular astrophotography lenses for full-frame cameras have typically been the 14mm Samyang/Rokinon lenses. Those are completely manual lenses. For astrophotography that’s not an issue since you can’t use auto-focus on stars anyway. These used to be f/2.8, but they now make an f/2.4 version as well.

Astrophotography and Landscape

For a more general purpose ultra-wide lens, Sigma makes a 14mm f/1.8 Art lens. It’s a bit more expensive (around $1600 USD), but it is does have auto-focus & aperture — and it is an f/1.8 lens. Since you plan to use the lens for daytime landscape as well as nighttime astrophotography, having auto-focus & aperture makes it a bit more versatile. (This would probably be my personal choice if I were to buy a new lens today.)

Thoughts & Consideration

The Samyang/Rokinon lenses used to have a somewhat common quality issue with “de-centered” optics (I use quotes because I suspect it may be non-orthogonal optics). In any lens, the field isn’t actually “flat”. There’s some field curvature and that means if you achieve your best focus at the center of frame then inspect the corners, you’ll notice the corners aren’t quite as sharp as the center … but each corner will be about the same as any other corner. On some Samyang/Rokinon copies, some corners were noticeably worse than others. It’s been a few years and they may have (hopefully) corrected the quality issus. If you do decide to go for Samyang/Rokinon, give the lens a test when it arrives to make sure you have a good copy.

When doing astrophotography, some photographers pick a star about 1/3rd of the way into the frame to use for focus … instead of a star in the center. This somewhat helps to average the focus quality across the frame so the corners don’t look as soft (the center isn’t as tack-sharp, but the corners aren’t nearly so obviously soft). Also, Stopping down slightly will help dramatically with coma and astigmatism.

Tilt-Shift (Landscape)

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention tilt-shift lenses. These are lenses that are especially versatile for landscape (and architecture but you are interested in landscape). The lenses allow you to change the plane of focus so it isn’t orthogonal to the optical axis of the lens. Here’s why that can be helpful.

Suppose it’s a rather breezy day and you’d like to capture a field of flowers. But the flowers are blowing in the wind. This means you’ll need a fast shutter speed to avoid them being blurred. But you find that when you try to use a fast shutter speed, you have to open up the aperture and now the depth of field wont let you get sharp focus across the entire field from near to far.

A tilt shift lens, would let you tilt the focal plane to match the field while still letting you shoot with a wide aperture so you can use a fast shutter speed — freezing the action and getting sharp focus from front to back with no motion blur.

These are completely manual lenses, tend to be expensive, and have a bit of a learning curve to understand and master how to use the tilt feature.

These lenses don’t have any advantages for astrophotography, but since you primarily asked about a landscape lens, I wouldn’t feel an answer is complete without at least mentioning them and when/why they are useful.

equipment recommendation – Will a bigger sensor and faster lens help me get sufficient light from my LED source?

Just me, but probably not.

LED continuous lighting, particularly if we’re talking little panels, tend to have relatively low light output and would be insufficient to match sunlight no matter what camera/lens combination you were using.

f/1.4 is nice, but you can buy f/1.4 for MFT, and moreover aperture affects any light source. While it might help brighten up your subject lit by LEDs, it’ll also brighten up the sunlight on the background at the same time and you’ll likely overexpose. And the sensor size increase between an APS-C camera vs. a four-thirds camera isn’t going to be giving you that much more than a stop of added dynamic range, and you still can’t equal or overpower bright sunlight with a weak source of illumination.

My suggestion would be to look into lighting with multiple sources, and shutting the curtains 🙂 or rethinking your light setup.

Overpowering sunlight is hard and often requires a really big powerful light. If you take the sunlight out of the equation, you can balance your background light with your key much more easily, vs. using the sun as your background light.

If you use the sun as your key, however, that could be another way of doing it. Put up a scrim (sheer curtains, paper) in the window to get diffused sunlight, and it might not be a bad way to light your subject, and use the LEDs on the background or as fill, so they don’t have to match or overpower the sunlight.

See also: dpreview’s youtube video: “Take better indoor portraits with natural light (without buying any new gear)”.

Need Recommendation RDP for Encode

Hi, i need recommendation encoding rdp, i have plan encode video x264 video to x265 fast.

thanks :]

Loking for a DirectAdmin managed VPS recommendation


– Budget $25-35 /mo
– EU is preferred location , but USA will be ok , depends on.

* Whitelable DNS and IP address will be gr… | Read the rest of

Looking for a managed VPS recommendation (with cPanel)

Hi folks,

I manage a network of 32 sites. Most my own. Most fairly small WordPress sites.

I have been with a reseller host for about the past 7/8 months. I got the recommendation from a member here and have been extremely satisfied with them.

However, I am beginning to take backing up my hosting more seriously and am looking for a way to do this automatically and incrementally (rsync etc). With a shared hosting / cPanel configuration, unless I’m mistaken, this isn’t really possible (although obviously you can download and keep the full cPanel backups).

I’m currently using 45GB of disk space and am paying about $260 / year.

Any managed VPS that gave me a cPanel would be fine. I’m proficient with Linux, so something like an Ubuntu server would be ideal.

Not super finnicky about budget – but would ideally like to keep spend within $200 of what I’m currently paying. The savior of this host, versus previous ones, has been their excellent support.

magento2 – Product recommendation duplicated when using Adobe Sensei

I’m using a Magento 2 Commerce Cloud + Adobe Sensei product recommendation

I did all the steps described in the DevDocs – Product Recommendations but when I enabled the AI product recommendations, it didn’t stop my native product recommendations, so there are 2 recommendation blocks in my product page.

How could I void this?

equipment recommendation – Is it worth to upgrade from Canon D600 to Nikon 610D in 2020?

After performing my research I’ve settled down on Nikon 610D + 24-120mm f/4 lens + Godox V1.

My main interest of photography is mainly Landscape and Astro with a little bit of Portrait. Do you guys think, with this combination I can perform better than what I’m currently doing?

The 17-70mm you have is 27.2-112mm full frame equivalent.

The f/2.8 you have is f/4.48 full frame equivalent, both in terms of background blur and in terms of light collecting ability. Going to f/4 full frame lens is one-third stop faster. Not by much.

Let’s check on a use case basis:

  • Landscape: you have slightly better zoom range so picking the right composition will be slightly easier as for landscape shots zooming with your feet is very, very slow indeed. Landscape photography is not typically light limited (unless taking landscape pictures in windy low light conditions)
  • Portrait: the 120mm vs 112mm you currently have won’t buy you much more versatility. The f/4 you are going to get over the f/4.48-equivalent won’t buy you much more background blur or low-light capability
  • Astro: the 24mm will be slightly better than 27.2mm if taking wide-angle milky way photographs, but not by much and an f/4 ain’t no astro lens.

I would say the kit you’re planning to purchase won’t be a major benefit. Of course, for full frame it’s easier to buy good lenses. If you add a good portrait lens (a fast aperture short tele) and a good astro lens (a fast aperture wide-angle) then you may see benefits from moving to full frame.

But, if you plan to buy just the camera and lens you said you’re going to purchase and stop there, it won’t be worth the money.

Me? I would buy a 50mm “nifty fifty” and some lighting gear for your current Canon. Much cheaper that way. Unfortunately, good astro lenses for crop Canons are hard to find but the 17-70mm at 17mm and f/2.8 will be a reasonable choice.

equipment recommendation – Which kind of camere he use it?

I’m wondering if someone could be recognize which kind of camera the photographer attached

Cause I think could Be an analogue camera, but I’m not really sure cause a lot of people use digital camera and recreate the analogic touch in post production.
Someone can help ?

Thank you