App Windows – Retouch Pro for Adobe Photoshop 1.0.0 | Nulled Scripts Download

Retouch Pro for Adobe Photoshop 1.0.0 Multilingual | 14.7 Mb
Retouch Pro is the most advanced panel to date in the photography business, the only panel with more than 150 functions and 6 languages available (English, Spanish, French, German, Italian , Russian).

RP use REAL artificial intelligence. All functions have been created and tested by the worlds best photographers.
These are some of the main functions of Retouch Pro:
– Skin Retouch
– Eyes Retouch
– Hair Retouch
– Lips Retouch
– Clothes retouch
– Artificial Intelligence: Face Recognition
– Artificial Intelligence: Body Recognition
– +20 Professional presets
– Water color
– Overlays: Snow, Rain, Sun, Dust
– Split Toning and Color Grading
– AI Realistic background Blur
– AI Realistic background color
– and much more!
Retouch Pro Panel has a very powerful and advanced Artificial intelligence system that works in line with Photoshop giving the user faster results and professional results too, you can modify Eyes, Lips, Mouth and the form of the face with a single touch or cut out the subject in the photo with 1 click.
Requirements: Adobe Photoshop CC versions from 2014 to 2021
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App Mac – Imagenomic Professional Plugin Suite For Adobe Photoshop 1736 | Nulled Scripts Download

File size: 13 MB

All 3 Imagenomic Plugins together to power your creative workflow and bring the best out of your photos.​

– Portraiture – skin retouching

Automatic skin smoothing, healing and enhancing effect plugin

– Noiseware – noise removal

Award-winning plugin and standalone for photo noise reduction

– Realgrain – B&W, toning, film

Inimitable toning, film and grain effects plugin

macOS 10.10 or later 64-bit

Adobe Photoshop CC 2015.5 and up




photoshop – Is it possible to re-focus (recover) an intentionally blurred image?

I work in data security and follow some data security news, images with data hidden by bluring and other image manipulation are “broken” all the time.

Digital filters in software work by taking the image data, doing some math on it and producing the modified image.

Unlike images that are shot out of focus in camera, with digitally blured images we know exactly the math formula the software used – and often we can reverse the formula and get the original image back (sometimes with some quality loss)

I have no idea what Picasa soft focus uses and I don’t know if it’s reversible, also I’m not going to analyze it, treat this answer as a general warning not as a review of Picasa’a soft focus filter’s security

Even if we can’t un-blur the image often it’s possible to recognize the blured person/object/text/whatever by bluring sections from other images and comparing them (because if we take two similar image and apply the same math to both we get two similar changed images).

So, your bluring method will stop the casual surfer but not anyone who really want to get the data, never use it to hide really sensitive data (especially not text or numbers), be careful and if you want to hide something just paint over it with a solid color (and check it’s also hidden in thumbnails, preview images, undo histories and such).

photoshop – Best way to process an HDR image from JPEGs

By far the simplest way is to use an HDR-specific app or plugin.

I’ve used both Aurora HDR & the old (used to be freeware) Nik Collection plugin HDR Efex Pro 2, both with reasonable degree of success. Both can take either a single input image or a bracketed set of exposures – even hand-held so long as there’s not too much movement, as they will auto-align.
No doubt there are many alternatives to those you could try too.

Photoshop itself I’ve always thought to be quite poor at HDR compared to these dedicated apps. I don’t use Lightroom, but I can’t imagine it being a great deal better.

photoshop – Why do my colours completely fade when I merge layers or export to jpeg?

I’ve been working on a colourful image but when I export it to jpeg, the colours are almost gone. Sure, I understand saving in jpeg can lead to change in colour but.. this is the most massive loss of saturation I’ve seen. The same thing happens if I merge down as well.

This is what my layers look like

enter image description here

Am I missing something obvious?

The difference:

left is the file still in PS and right is my jpeg

The purple colour especially seems to not appear. I feel like I’m missing something obvious. Am i working in the wrong colour space?

How can I get the colours to pop in my export files?

Night Moon Photoshop 2020 Composition Tutorial

Night Moon Photoshop 2020 Composition Tutorial

Using Photoshop Overlays

Photoshop overlays add an extra layer to your image that may alter its color, texture, and the overall look. People new to Photoshop may think of it as a kind of filter. However, they are more than that.
How to use them?
1. Download an overlay to your computer.
2. Open the edited picture in Photoshop.
3. Select Place from your File menu and select the overlay you want to work with. Thus, the overlay will open as a new layer.
4. Switch to the Screen Blend mode and alter the…

Using Photoshop Overlays

I Will Do Professionally Background Removal for $5

I Will Do Professionally Background Removal

I am happy to offer you my technical knowledge and expertise of an artist to give your photos a better life. I am a professioanl illustrator and editor so i will deliver you quality work.I take every project seriously and deliver on time. I am ready to revise if we imagine things differently. Please have a look on my gallery to assess the quality.  


photoshop – Any good tutorials for learning how to post-process images?

Like many people have already mentioned, is what I recommend. Initially, I’ve learnt post processing from YouTube videos because of the fact that it was free. But the problem was I never knew where to start and what video to watch next. I watched videos randomly and, somehow, learnt how to edit pictures well. However, after some time I just couldn’t improve my skills. There were several videos on YouTube but most were what everyone else has already done. So then, one day I tried Lynda. I should tell you, I’m damn good now, and I give entire credit to Lynda tutorials.

There are structured courses. So, I was able to go through without the struggle of deciding what to watch next. To be honest, what I wanted to learn was “when to use what tool, how to use it and why should I use it”. Lynda offered exactly that!

If you ask me where to start, I recommend courses by Chris Orwig on, as I felt his videos are simple and easy to grasp. If you want more, take courses by Ben Long.

You can sign up for Lynda free trial and check the courses.

photoshop – Why does the histogram of an image depends on the software that opened it?

It’s all to do with the profile applied to the raw files and guesses other software makes as to what that profile ought to be…

RAW is not an ‘absolute’ format in terms of the image displayed, it’s raw data to which an ‘opinion’ of what the image ought to look like can be manipulated from. It will already contain several view options added by the camera, based on the photographer’s pre-determined settings, but these can be changed later, in software.

Adobe RAW in Photoshop will make a guess at what it thinks the Nikon default profile ought to be and what adjustments the photographer may have made to their settings, but frankly it usually makes a horrible mess of it, because it isn’t the same as Nikon actually use, it’s an attempt to reverse-engineer how Nikon does it. Photoshop interprets the profile as being Adobe RGB(1998).

By the look of it, Paintshop Pro has even less of a clue as to what it really ought to look like. I don’t have Paintshop to be able to examine what its guess was.

The only app that can actually guess correctly is Nikon’s own software suite, including ViewNX-i. ViewNX-i knows exactly what the camera’s settings were, including that the photographer was using the Vivid enter image description here colour profile addition, for extra colour-punch…

enter image description here

To get that data into Photoshop or Paintshop correctly, the best way to do it is to export as a TIFF… then it will open looking something like it was intended, without having to make any guesses. The correct Profile is now showing as Nikon sRGB when imported to Photoshop.

On the other hand, the jpgs have been saved, imo (see below) directly from the camera, with the internet standard sRGB profile. This, allowing for variance in actual monitor calibration, is the closest you get to the artist’s actual intent, without having Nikon software to interpret for you.

NEF interpreted by PhotoRAW

enter image description here

TIF after export from ViewNX-i with no adjustments

enter image description here

JPG, for comparison

enter image description here

As you can see, the TIF has more in common with the JPG, though the JPG is slightly darker in the greens.

I cant really post a picture of what the image actually looks like in ViewNX-i because the screen layout won’t let me drop the size down and conveniently place the histogram over it like I can in Photoshop, but in fact the jpg is the closest of the three to what it looks like in ViewNX-i, so the camera has done a pretty decent job of conveying in a more ‘portable’ format (sRGB JPG) what the photographer’s intent was according to his camera settings.