How can I use live view while tethering a Nikon D810 to LightRoom 5 CC?

My camera is a Nikon D810. I have the Adobe Creative Cloud suite and haven’t updated it for a while, but my Lightroom version is 5.

My camera came with a cable, one side was a HDMI I think that I connected to port of the camera and the other side was a USB cable that I connected to the laptop and opened Lightroom, and was able to take pictures with the viewfinder of the camera and they showed up but I can not get LiveView of the camera to turn on and use that instead of viewfinder.

I want LiveView so I can zoom in on my focus point and exactly see if I am tack sharp or not.

Nikon D5600 will not autofocus AF VR ED 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D lens

I think this is actually (sadly) to be expected. Is that correct (manual focus is required)?

What modern Nikon cameras will be able to focus this lens?

Thanks!

What is the best underwater housing kit for a Nikon D700?

I have a Nikon D700 and would like to take it on some waterbased shoots, mainly freshwater lakes, but in the future some low surf conditions. What is the best, most affordable underwater housing kit that will be lightweight (so

How to use spacer rings to change the behaviour of the Nikon 35-70 f/2.8 lens

A camera lens is a complex array of lens elements. Some are cemented together, some are air-spaced. Believe it or not, the air-space, being lens shaped, acts as an element. Changing the air-space thickness tweaks the focal length. Odds are, the scratches on the front element, had little effect on lens performance. The lens you substituted likely will degrade. Changes of improvement are low.

nikon – Same manual camera settings under continuous light but some pictures are yellow and some are blue

I recently did a product photoshoot.
After a few pictures, I noticed that some of the photos are warm coloured, some of them are cold. I have not touched the object, my camera was on a tripod, and I used the same settings (in manual mode) for every picture.
It is really annoying because I need to create a GIF from about 15 photos and some of them are yellow, some are blue. Even some photos turned out half yellow / half blue on the same picture.

Here is an example showing the different colour temperature. They are shot with the same settings, same light, same camera, same tripod, etc…:

enter image description here

For the shoot, I used two softboxes (continuous light) and they remained at the same place for the whole time. These are my settings (identical for all pictures):

  • Focal length: 50 mm
  • Aperture: f/5.6
  • Shutter speed: 1/320
  • White abalnce: 5260 K
  • Spot metering

I was wondering if the problem was that I had my camera set to spot metering mode, but I am not sure.

Any suggestions or ideas why is this happening?

I shoot in RAW, so I know that I can fix this in Photoshop, but it’s a lot of work with 15-20 images. Especially that it says that the yellow and the blue images have the exact same level of temperature and tint. So I probably have to reduce the temperature of the yellow one to match with the blue images but that’s very complicated, because not all the images are the same.

repair – D5000 Nikon Service Center

D5000. Where is there a Nikon service center that I can take my camera to? The shutter intermittently sticks and usually happens when I’m already at my destination. I haven’t tried to fix it myself. I don’t like messing with the insides. If I put the camera away, it usually works the next time I take it out.

troubleshooting – Why is my Nikon D90 viewfinder shaking?

Edit: The more I think about this, the less convinced I am that what I wrote originally is the answer, especially if this is happening with other lenses. I didn’t see the same failure mode, either; mine just quit focusing. I’m going to query the OP about a couple of things in the comments and will revise this answer if I come up with anything else.


Original Answer:

Based on the OP’s comment:

The first-generation 18-200 had problems with the AF hardware failing, so it might be that yours is on its way out. Mine died pretty early in its life and Nikon fixed it under warranty.

There were also a few cases where the front element fell out of the lens because the retainer ring wasn’t properly secured, so you might want to check that, too.

metering – nikon d7000- same shot but some pictures are yellow some are blue… why?

I hope someone can help me in this one because i have no idea whats going on.

I use a Nikon D7000. I recently did a product photoshoot. After a few pictures Ive noticed that some of the photos are warm coloured, some of them are cold. I havent touched the object and my camera was on a tripod, also I used the same settings (in manual mode) for every picture. Its really annoying because I need to do a gif from about 15 photos and some of it are yellow some of it are blue… Even some photos turned out half yellow half blue on the same picture.. so weird.. the white balance was set to K mode and 5260K. For the shoot i used two softbox (continues light) and they were remained at the same place for the whole time.
other settings were this for every picture:

focal lenght: 50mm, F number: f/5.6, exposure time: 1/320, metering mode: spot

I was wondering if the problem was that i had my camera set to spot metering mode, but im not sure..

any suggestions or ideas why is this happening?

This is two imageS from the set side by side. Shot with the same settings, same light, same camera, same tripod everything!!! Even i shot these two right after each other.. idk what causes this problem..

I shoot in RAW. So i know i can fix this in photoshop but its a lot of work with 15-20 images.. especially that it says that the yellow and the blue images has the exact same level of temperature and tint.. so i probably have to reduce the temperature of the yellow one to match with the blue images but thats very complaceted.. cause not all the images are the same.. as i said some of the pictures are half and half. The top is blue and the bottom is yellow..

enter image description here

many thanks
A

How to use spacer rings to change the bahaviour of the Nikon 35-70 f/2.8 lens

I recently bought a Nikon 35-70 mm f/2.8 lens with some scratches on the front element. I exchanged the front element with the element of an old lens I had lying around. Everything works fine, but now the lens is a tiny bit soft on the long end.

I noticed some spacer rings behind the front element. What do they do, and how can I now if the lens needs more or less of them?

dslr – Can a Nikon D3500 shutter be released remotely without using the Snapbridge app?

Officially, the only way to remotely trigger your D3500 is with the Snapbridge app.

Unofficially, and if you consider USB-connected to be “remote”, you can control some of the functions of your camera using qDSLRDashboard on either your computer or your Android device, tethered via USB cable (to PC) or USB-on-the-go cable (to Android).

The D3xxx line isn’t officially supported by qDSLRDashboard, but it reportedly works for some limited functionality, according to this dpreview.com forum post:

If you have a USB-OTG adapter/cable, I recommend the QDSLRDashboard app for PC and mobile. The D3XXX cameras aren’t officially supported, but basic functionality works for me. Live View and video recording don’t work, but you have full control over the basic camera settings and you can use the built-in bracketing feature. I think it’s well worth the $9 for mobile, despite the limitations for our camera.