Low light – How do I take a picture so that the moon does not have bright "rays"?

The "lightning" effect is known as the sun star. There are 2 conditions to reach the solar stars:

  1. use a narrow opening (such as f / 16).
  2. Point the camera at a small, bright light source.

You achieved that effect very well. However, photography does not work.
In the photo, the subject seems to be the moon. However, it is difficult to say that it is the moon only when looking at it. We only guess it by looking at the surrounding night cityscape.

To visualize the moon as we know it (with dry lands and craters), you can follow this automated method:

  1. Use the opening priority mode with the spot metering mode.
  2. Choose the largest opening available (f / 5.6 or wider).
  3. Place the point meter on the moon and take a picture. The point meter area is often in the center of the frame (~ 2% of the area). See your camera manual.
  4. Check if it is correctly exposed. Use exposure compensation to achieve adequate exposure.
  5. Now the moon is exposed correctly but in the middle of the frame. If you want to change the composition of your image, mark the values ​​of your exposed frame correctly in manual mode. Compose and take your picture, and voilà!

There are other methods to correctly expose / compose the moon, such as Exposure Lock, manual mode … Choose what you think best as you gain experience.

You can see that the moon is very bright compared to the surrounding landscape. In fact, most lunar landscapes are composite shots: a long exposure to the landscape itself and a short one to the moon. Then, both exposures are merged into the image processor to use the best part of both images.

Another tip for photographing larger moons (apart from the long focal length), the moon may appear larger when it rises and sets. In addition, depending on its geographical location and season, the landscape may also be brighter, as it may not be quite nocturnal. Under these conditions, you can perform a single lunar landscape of exposure.

Happy moon!

Website design: Emoji vs. Switch to choose a light / dark theme in a navigation bar

From my point of view, changing the switch button does not make it more understandable. If you are going to change it in any way other than a slider, I would prefer that something mean two-sided image / emoji (like Gemini) to make it more understandable, since it is a changeable element.

And as you say, putting your name next to this slider icon makes this icon more like your logo of preference.

Finally, on the menu button & # 39; Start & # 39 ;, you can simply put it anywhere, but, as being sticky, make users reach anywhere at any time or have the most desired functions within a Drop-down menu, the most functional button should be where users interact more as their first look.

unit: how to change the intensity of a light

Is light a reference to a component attached to an object of the game, presumably the same one to which this script is attached. Otherwise, you will need a reference and you must assign it at some point, like this:

public class Flashlight : MonoBehaviour
{

    public bool flashOn;
    public Light light;

    // After saving this script, the light field should appear 
    // in the inspector alongside your flashOn boolean field.
    // You may assign it manually there, or through code at runtime.
    // I prefer the latter, and it is done like so:
    public void Awake()
    {
        light = GetComponent();
    }

    void Update()
    {
        if (Input.GetKeyDown("q"))
            flashOn = !flashon;

        if (flashOn)
            light.intensity = 0;
        else
            light.intensity = 1;
    }
}

You may also find it helpful to review the Unity API documentation for Light.intensity here.

I adjusted your script a bit here, changing GetKey to GetKeyDown. In this way, the flashlight status will only change once when the key of your choice is pressed, instead of alternating each frame while pressing the key, which I suppose is not the intended functionality, since it would be very difficult to A player presses a button for a single frame.

Good luck with your game!

studio lighting: light modifier compatibility with different brand speed ring?

Your Adorama monolight is designed for modifiers that use a Bowens S mount, so the Bowens Stripbox should work fine. The Bowens mount has 3 tabs on the rotating modifier to lock in place in the light itself. It is a very solid setting and the modifier will not move once it is locked in place.

Paul C Buff uses a different mount (Balcar). This is a grooved ring in the modifier, and there are four spring-tensioned clips in the light that hold this groove and hold the modifier to the light. I used this with Einsteins and the advantage is that you can place the modifier at an angle the way you want instead of being fixed in one of the 3 positions with Bowens.

To use the Buff softbox with its Bowens light, you must purchase a new Bowens mounting ring ($ 10- $ 15), remove the Balcar ring from the Buff softbox and then attach the Bowens ring to the softbox. It's not that difficult: Buff lights use thumb screws to hold the ring in the softbox, so you don't even need a screwdriver, but remember you're doing it with a rented softbox, so be careful not to damage it. And don't forget to convert it again before returning the softbox.

light – What is a more accurate name for "full spectrum" photography?

Photography enthusiasts (and Wikipedia) often call photography that occurs outside the visible spectrum full spectrum photography.

However, from a scientific point of view, I do not believe that these cameras really capture the "complete" spectrum, or that there is such a thing in the consumer market. They do not capture X-rays or gamma rays, and other wavelengths such as far infrared or ultraviolet are probably also omitted.

Is there a better and scientifically accurate way to call a camera that has been converted to capture wavelengths that are outside the visible spectrum, or this type of photography?

Elegant light | NulledTeam UnderGround

Elegant light It is developed for a professional structure, a flexible and multi-purpose forum topic with an excellent responsive design for XenForo 2.1+.

Elegant Light is a functional design with advanced customization features. It is an easy-to-use interface with fully customizable style features and ease of use without any code knowledge.
There are 15 different style groups created by us on the subject and hundreds of features in these …

lighting: what is the difference between a monoluminous light and a studio strobe?

I thought these two names were synonyms, but, for example, the same manufacturer has a product described as monolight and one described as a study strobe available with approximately the same specifications and features, and at the same price.

Is there a significant difference between monolight and study strobe, or is it just an example of an overlap of a couple of product lines?

Exposure: real light increments using the aperture scale at fractional stops

In the case of using the number f with full points, the + 1EV step means 2 * light because the area (A = πr ^ 2) in the diaphragm is doubled (i.e. radius * √2)

However, I don't know why in fractional stops like + 1 / 2EV; + 1 / 3EV; + 2 / 3EV, the light does not increase 1/2 * light, 1/3 * light, 2/3 * lightrespectively. I mean, the radius is multiplied by √2 ^ (1/2), √2 ^ (1/3), √2 ^ (2/3), which means an increase in the Area by 1.41, 1.26, 1.59 (solving the area equation), respectively.

Why not take the real increases in area / light of 1.5, 1.33, 1.66 using the radio √ (3/2), √ (4/3), √ (5/3) as the real fractional stops of + 1 / 2EV; + 1 / 3EV; + 2 / 3EV?

Low light: why are my night photos of the city more blurred than I expected and what can I do about it?

I think you can be satisfied with the overall result given the equipment you are using. You are fighting the effects that are unbeatable without traps and compromises. If you want substantially better, you need a better team or you need to "cheat" or both.

There are several apparent effects at work here.

As Matt says: there are substantial JPG compression artifacts. The original imgur file was 750 kB, which suggests that it had been substantially compressed somewhere along the line.

Consider the version marked below.
You can also look the imgur version marked here Y
As marked version here – click on the second icon in the photo at the top right to "download the original file"

enter the description of the image here

  • The target is too large for the available pixels.!!! – It's a magnificent view but

The 550D in the complete song produces a maximum image of 5184 x 3456 = 18 mp and the copy of the image was 3888 x 2592 = 10mp, so it represents approximately 45% of the resolution of the original area or approximately 75% linearly . Even given another 33%, it just doesn't have enough pixels for details. Here is an example where the swollen D800 sensor almost makes sense.

The camera must be set to produce everything to the fullest. RAW if RAW is used. The best possible jpg if not. EXIF or at least the central data for this particular image would be useful.

See the note G in the image: the lamp has been flown to show the details. It is an original of 30 x 30 pixels as it occurred to me. There are not enough details there to expect the light to be much sharper than it is.

  • You may be getting visible diffraction effects. Good prominence in street lights is often a sign of small opening and possibly diffraction. You say f16, which probably seems marginal for such effects.

  • The sensor is saturated with luminance (highlights "fade") and also in some or in the 3 color channels in many areas.

You cannot expect a "genuine approach" to the original material if the reflections are completely saturated and the details are destroyed.

This is an inevitable result if you want to render an image with such a wide dynamic range and achieve an eye-pleasing result without resorting to HDR, tone mapping or magic in general. Notes A. B. C, E show histograms of small areas.

The light in A has a pleasantly blown point of 100% white in the place of the light. The brain accepts that without much complaint.

The light in B also has its maximum level fully saturated (the red channel is shown here) but has a very large output component throughout the range. (What the histogram shows depends on the amount of surrounding darkness included, but it is clear that "tone mapping" or HDR or local camera contrast management (DLighting, etc.) would improve this if applied with the Enough violence

I included C to show that a line of lights with moderately lit surrounding areas has a lot of total saturation, although this is not necessarily obvious at a glance.

Where is Wally / D? ?

E is in the reflections of the river: the brightest points are saturated.

I looked at F to see if some sort of filtering could help the lights. Blue is well below but red and green are well saturated in the center.

In general it is a good image.
I could tolerate a somewhat reduced total exposure and this will help some of the highlights, but only a little.

This is an example for what HDR is done (one opinion, feel free to disagree :-)) – used with good taste, possibly with manual control, it will probably add a lot, but the effort can be severe and many will not notice .

Selective contrast or brightness control would also probably help, depending on how the camera was set up, more aggressive treatment may be available.

Playing with the opening will confirm or reject the idea that you are getting some noticeable diffraction effects in the spot lights.

In the days of the movie, they could be invited to dodge and burn badly.

How good is your tripod?
Have you tried the tripod / camera / timer settings on known perfect point sources with perfect focus and time delays of the same magnitude? In recent tests in extreme configurations and using a focus magnifying glass, I was a little surprised at how unsound and seemingly solid the tripod mount was and how long it took to settle after being touched or struck for the last time. That was extreme (focal length equivalent to 1275 mm: the orbital movement of the Moon in the plane means that it takes about 20 seconds for its edge to travel through the frame!) But still applicable to your situation and the focus magnifying glass Give an idea of ​​the vibration that the standard viewfinder will never give you.

I have not mentioned the quality of the lens, as it is somewhat unknowable and there is enough above to explain what you are seeing (or not seeing) that you really need to address before an improvement of the lens is helpful. I think! The lens experts disagree at all.

I have not mentioned the atmosphere, which is also a variable party and is not easy to know. At night, when it is cool and quiet (or cooler and quieter) it is usually a good time in that regard.

Duplicate image to minimize displacement. Delete if you wish.

enter the description of the image here

dnd 5e – Can I use the cleric spell light and a magnifying glass to light a fire?

Not by RAW: "bright light" = / = "sunlight" = / = "The Sun"

Magnifying glass. Lighting a fire with a magnifying glass requires
light as bright as sunlight to focus, tinder to light and about 5
minutes for the fire to ignite
. Basic rules, p. 51)

None of the rules indicate heat as a characteristic of various light spells, although some characteristics of spells that are "sunlight" also cause radiant damage. The light cantrip is not described as sunlight, nor "as bright as sunlight."

Sunburst / Evocation 8th level / Bright sunlight in a
60 foot radius centered on a point you choose within the range.

And that spell doesn't last the required 5 minutes.

It is not clear whether the "radiant" damage includes or not "heat" or if it is some kind of magical sacred radiation. Not all light sources can do what the sun does.

  • For example, my LED flashlight illuminates our kitchen quite well
    when I hang it from the beams, but I can't concentrate that light
    in something that will cause a fire. Yes, I tried a challenge from my son.

Is this a great idea to light a fire? Yes.

Under Rules as fun, I could rule as DM that with a little time and effort, a clergyman could (with a suitable magnifying glass or with a similar element like a lens of a spyglass (Expensive!)) Concentrate enough heat of light on something that ignites a fire. But a tinderbox is much cheaper. Do you want to disassemble that spyglass and may not be able to use it?

1,000 gp spyglass
100 gp magnifier
Tinder 5 sp.
(Basic rules, p. 51)

There are a couple of other cantrips that can light a fire as part of their basic function: druidcraft, produce flameor that old standby prestidigitation

• Instantly light or extinguish a candle, a torch or a small
bonfire. (Basic rules, p. 102)