Is there any way to find out if the Kodak 200 Gold cans have been printed (such as the Advantix)? Or maybe, they just did not return the cans, just negative ones?
I'm using Kodak Digi Album pro and I'm new to this tool.
Kodak Digi Album seems to be a dead software.It seems that there is no real References to standard search engine software. (The results mainly consist of references to this page and false download sites). The search for Kodak Support does not yield any relevant results either.
Is there any way to convert my .PAB and .KPL files to JPEG?
If the software does not provide built-in export, What you want may not be possible.There do not seem to be existing converters, and it is unlikely that anyone will create one in the future because the software is no longer available.
I have a cute little pocket Kodak from the twenties or thirties. It is the bottom of the range model with the "single lens". The opening is not marked in numbers f, but is labeled as 1, 2, 3 and 4.
Is there any way to know the equivalent opening of the number f to measure the exposures with the modern and fast film (Ilford Delta 400)?
I would like to use a 35mm camera as a meter, and decipher a conversion for the vintage camera. The most expensive cameras in the same range have lenses f7.9 and f6.3, so I guess it's higher than that. But I could imagine that a cheap one-element lens was quite bright, but sacrificing sharpness.
I've done a lot of searching on Google, but I have not found anything. It seems that the other models in the range may have been more common than the "single lens".
I have the original manual, which includes 3 exposure tables for the 3 different lens options (individual, "Kodar f.7.9" and "Kodak Anastigmat f.6.3"), the page for the single lens is reproduced here. However, I realize that the films of the time were quite slow, so this is likely to over-expose the modern movie.
Other details of the camera. It takes 120 movies, and it seems to work. I executed an Ilford FP4 roll out of date, and I got 4 or 5 really good images, but I was guessing and exposing exhibitions in full sunlight. I think it says more about the latitude of the movie than my ability with the camera.
The plate that surrounds the lens with the shutter and opening marks has the number "27449".
If you are wondering why the bellows look strange in the photo, it is because they have some light leaks, so I put them in a black paper "vest" that seems to block them enough.
I have a new Ilford Delta 400, and I hope to take portraits with natural light indoors (a very well lit room), the same conditions with a 35mm camera, with a cheap f3.9 lens with Ilford FP4, 125 ASA has not had problems.
Interestingly, the opening is in front of the shutter, which are both in front of the lens element. When holding a ruler and squinting, I assume that the opening in setting 1 is about 8 mm in diameter, and in the setting of 4 about 2 mm.
Thank you very much for the previous answer related to the color film. It really helped me understand a lot! 🙂
Now I am in a small dilemma regarding which developer I should choose for my BW Kodak Tmax 400. Therefore, in colors, the C-41 is quite simple and can be used for almost all the written movies. The developer is also reused a couple of times before discarding it.
But while watching some youtube videos and reading related to the development of BW, it seems to be a bit different, since the developer is discarded after each use. Also some youtubers mentioned that the process for each BW movie is slightly different for certain brands.
Now, looking for the developer of Tmax 400, I saw a different site that mentioned a different developer such as Xtol, HC-110, Rodenol, etc. I'm confused as to which one I should choose. The HC-110 seems to be a Kodak developer. While the fixative was common in most Ilford fixatives, it is reused and then a third chemical similar to the color stabilizer is added.
Kindly help me with which one is the best? I saw a last question doing something similar but different people mentioned different. Quite confusing