What is an ISO file? The image file format has been a very popular way to distribute software online, since broadband network speeds allowed us to do so. If you've already installed a Linux distribution, chances are you did it using an ISO file. If you haven't installed a version of Linux, the first step is probably to find an ISO file to download.
The ISO file format is a digital file that contains the contents of an optical media disc. You can also make an ISO image from any optical media format, such as a CD, DVD, and even Blu-ray.
There is a notable exception. You cannot use the ISO file format to create an image of an audio CD, as it does not use a computer file system. In these cases, consider using the BIN / CUE image combinations instead.
ISO files make use of the ISO 9660 file system. It is also possible that these images make use of the UDF (Universal Disc Format) file system in some use cases. The data in the file is not compressed … See full publication https://siitgo.com/blog/how-to-extract-iso-files-with-linux/1638
– Date and time format string in an international standard so that all compatible programming languages can be integrated, analyzed from and to
– When we're taking on I ASI, we must think about how we see and transfer the date and time value
2020-03-24T10:15:00.000Z is equal to 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000+07:00 or 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000Z is equal to 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000+10:00 too
Basically 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000Z is equal to 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000+00:00
UTC is the way to say that the time zone is +00:00
– 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000Z it is UTC value in I ASI Format
– 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000+00:00 it is UTC value in I ASI Format
– 2020-03-24T10:15:00.000(plus)00:00 it is UTC value in "Hieu" format => I just invented a new way to express a UTC datetime value. You can also do another
Don't try to combine the idea of how to store a datetime value and what we see as a string format. Why?
In SQL serverWe have many ways to store a datetime value.
Ex: date and time without time zone, with time zone, as a string format, as a numeric format, or even a binary format
In NoSql– People can store it as a string format (in ISO for any format)
Fire tent is a NoSql: we can officially store the datetime value in a datetime format because it is supported
local storage or sqlite They are NoSql also, but they don't have date and time type, so people have to store it as string type (in ISO for any format)
In JSON, because there is no such date and time. So we have to determine what string format we want to use to represent a datetime value. Personally, the ISO format is a good option
There are many formats for Date and Time. Former:
2020-03-24T10:15:00.000Z it is an ISO format with z tell the reader what UTC is
2020-03-24 10:15:00 it is a format without z. Therefore, you may not know what time zone it comes from. It can be UTC or Vietnam time.
=> Therefore, it is recommended that we choose a full ISO format
There is a block pattern on the side of a 135 film cartridge that some cameras can "read" to determine the ISO of the film. The system is called DX encoding. It was introduced by Kodak in March 1983, so older cameras certainly won't have the feature.
Quoting Wikipedia …
The exterior of the film cartridges is marked with a DX Auto camera
Detection code (CAS) readable by many cameras. The cameras can then
automatically determine film speed, number of exposures and
DX camera automatic detection code takes the form of a contact grid
dots on the side of the metal cartridge surface that are
driver or non-driver. Electrical contacts on camera read
The bit pattern. Most cameras read only part of the code; typically,
only the speed of the film is read and some cameras are aimed at the consumer
the market only reads enough bits to distinguish the most common movie
speeds. For example, 100, 200, 400 and 800 can be detected by reading
only S1 and S2 and ground.
As noted in a comment and explained on Wikipedia, the full DX camera auto detection system uses 5 bits of information, but even when checking only the first 2 bits, it is still possible to distinguish between ISO 100, 200, 400 and 800. Some camera manufacturers took advantage of this to keep production costs down, so the implementation on low-end cameras may not read the full pattern. If a DX-coded movie of any other speed is inserted, the ISO determined by the camera will be incorrect.
I have a system with Ubuntu 18.04.2 installed. I need to update it to 18.04.4. The system does not have internet connectivity and I cannot provide it either. I have the latest iso but cannot update to the newest iso without losing my data.
I have an Asus FX503VD with Windows and I want to boot it dual to run ubuntu too. I created a partition on my HDD (Unit D) not SDD (Unit C), is this a problem? Because every time I restart and try to run ubuntu from a usb drive flashed with the ubuntu iso (downloaded from the ubuntu website, flashed with rufus), it fails. I use the option Run ubuntu without installing and when I do, it shows me the ubuntu desktop screen where I have the option to install, but then it locks up a few minutes later. Go back to the ubuntu loading screen and after a while it says: "Remove the installation media and press the Enter key". But sometimes I simply turn off my laptop. Please help.
This is not a groan, although it could easily be, but is there any real practical use for the high ISO capabilities of modern DSLRs?
Some background, since this is my first question here: I am very new to DSLRs, after having spent the last 15 years since I moved away from 35 mm carrying only a phone with me for the occasional snapshot, so I am very behind of the curve.
I have a Nikon D5500, entry level, but I'm sure it's enough for my requirements for a while yet; 18-55 mm kit and a Tamron 70-300 mm lens. I am fully aware of its limitations and I am prepared to work in and around them as much as possible. I have been using it in the full manual since day one. I like to make my own decisions and check the screen later, or even drop the card on my computer and look more carefully; rinse and repeat until done well. Much easier than in the days of wet film. I shoot RAW and I am aware of the possibilities and practical aspects of RAW in the publication.
To the question … The entry level lenses do not have much aperture, so I tend to run almost wide, which is only f4 at best, to shorten my DOF. It is fine for works with artificial light, but I am outdoors, starting just before sunset in November, in a forest, by hand, to ISO 100. It begins to exceed my limits for a firm hand as the sun sets – I am fine until about 1 / 40s at 70-135 mm * in a static subject. By the time it's really getting dark, I'm already using a flash to lift my foreground and I don't want to try to brighten the scene anymore, for practical reasons. I can no longer make my flash shorter, so I have to be able to get more light from my background to maintain the balance … I reach the ISO to continue working for 20 additional minutes.
I used to use 32,000 b / w on the day and the results were & # 39; a grainy fashion & # 39; but good. Edit: 3200 no 32000, which denies that argument, but I will leave the paragraph to highlight my previous confusion. After the comments: I've made comparisons with my old 3200 b / w and yes, the noise of the DSLR in the matching figures is definitely an improvement.
By the time I reach 8000, I am really beyond anything, even vaguely usable, however, the camera would go to 26,000 or so.
I can't think of a practical use for that speed in the DSLR, the noise is simply "bad", rather than even "interesting." Note; I have experimented with noise removal software and I have chosen Topaz as my current favorite, but it has its limits even with that.
So, my question: TL: DR is Are there practical or artistic uses for high ISO that I still have to discover, or is it just & # 39; advertising advertising & # 39 ;?
Of course, I am aware that my alternative is to illuminate the shot, get lenses with larger apertures, or take a tripod, etc. and also that I am actually improving the SNR using a high ISO configuration, so my question is not really "How do I solve this?" but "How do I make good use in low light, where [I think] is my only option to get enough data on the sensor?", or even an external possibility of "Is there something I just haven't thought of?".
I hope this is not considered a hoax. Is high ISO useful for photography? I have already read I am aware that I am improving my SNR to a higher ISO, but I am running out of noise. The accepted response was also compared with an underexposed image, rather than one in which there was no practical way to improve exposure, except using the ISO settings. Nor a noise reduction hoax in very high ISO photos since I am already using a decent noise reduction software in the publication.
My greatest hope of differentiating this as not being deceived is perhaps to eliminate the & # 39; use it to stop rapid action in a reasonable light & # 39; that leaves me with & # 39; when you run out of shutter speed and aperture and you stay with the only alternative being to raise the ISO & # 39 ;. It seems to me that much of that amplification is really not helping at that time.
* numbers on the dial, not APS equivalents.
I took some examples as proof.
All with Tamron 70-300 mm to 116 mm lens, f4.2 I started at ISO 100 and climbed in steps, shortening the exposure every time. On a tripod, but it moves slightly between each frame as I change the settings, so they don't overlap. The images are originally RAW, 6000×4000 but reduced to 30% and saved as jpg. The images are reduced on the page using but it must be visible in the loaded size by right clicking. All are more or less like "shot" with a very slight exposure adjustment to a couple of them to balance them.
The little man in the picture is a mask hanging on the wall of my work room, the light is through the nearby window, cloudy day.
The area of interest is really the upper part of the child's head and the shadow on the wall above and to the left of that: the low contrast area. and yes, the type is made of wood, in a terracotta wall, it is not a problem of white balance, this is how it looks ;-]
I have installed Ubuntu 19.10 and I wanted to try and maybe install
I checked it without a hard drive, it works. I tried hard drive, it doesn't boot.
I tried a hard drive that has Windows 10, it boots fine.
Yes, I can install it on the Windows hard drive, but I use it for games because ubuntu doesn't have a large selection of games, so I use ubuntu for work and Windows for games.