lightning network – How can I increase the routing my ‘small’ lighting node performs?

I know this question has been asked a lot. However I am not able to grasp the correct approach to address this.

Let me give you the context: I spun up an LND node to start experimenting and understanding the capabilities of this spectacular technology. Put $100 worth of sats in the node and spread it across 4 channels and I was also lucky to have another 5 channels open with me – so I have some outgoing capacity from the channels I have opened and also some inbound capacity from the channels others opened to me. The channels are unbalanced meaning that, for the channels I opened remote balance is 0 and for the channels others opened to me local balance is 0. I know that channels should be balanced to be able to perform routing in both directions in every channel but thought since others have also opened channels to me, I could still route some transactions. Is this a valid assumption?

Base fee is set to 0 and my fee rate is 0.000001 which I believe is cheap to incentivize some routing. For 4 months now fwdinghistory returns nothing. I thought that with this setup I could easily route just a cup of coffee but it seems we are not there yet.

What can I do to reach the point where I actually perform some routing? I don’t want to commit more capital to the node until I am confident of what I am doing and how things work. Again the rational behind is that 100$ should suffice to route some coffee buys. I understand that the first thing to do is to try to provide liquidity where liquidity is needed but I simply don’t understand how to identify where liquidity is needed.

dnd 5e – Is there any way to increase the max range of a glaive or similar weapon?

dnd 5e – Is there any way to increase the max range of a glaive or similar weapon? – Role-playing Games Stack Exchange

dnd 5e – How can I increase my Monk’s unarmed damage?

Unarmed damage for a monk is a bit different than for other classes. A monk that has armed a simple weapon can still gain the benefit of being “unarmed”, but they are limited to rolling the monk’s unarmed damage die when doing so. At low levels this is less, but at higher levels this is equal and eventually even more than the weapon’s damage roll.

pg 78, PHB Monk, Martial Arts Section.
– you can roll d4 in place of normal damage of your unarmed strike or monk weapon. This die changes as you gain monk levels.
monk levels
1-4 1d4
5-12 1d6
12-16 1d8
17-20 1d10

This includes the quarter staff, which is both a simple weapon as well as versatile.

phb pg 147. Versatile – This weapon can be used with one or two hands. A damage value in parentheses appears with the property-the damage when the weapon is used with two hands to make a melee attack (That’s 1d8 for quarter staff)

So the first attack can be done two handed for 1d8 base damage, but following monk bonus attacks must slide to one handed and you do damage with monk’s unarmed damage roll (not the weapon’s damage dice).

For the first attack, roll damage as a two handed weapon, the second and subsequent damage rolls, roll as a unarmed monk weapon. This gives you 1d8+DEX, 1d4+Dex, 1d4+Dex at low levels.

When you reach 5th level you can also attack or strike 4 times (that’s right, check out the block quotes below)

phb pg 79 extra attack Begining at 5th level, you can attack twice, instead of once whenever you take the attack action on your turn.

Note this does not cost a bonus action.

phb ph 78 flurry of blows Immediately after you take the Attack action on your turn. You can spend 1 ki point to make two unarmed strikes as a bonus action.

That’s right, so after level 5, your attack sequence is (not including str or dex bonuses) 1d8, 1d8, 1d6, 1d6…wow. If you added Fangs of the Fire Snake to that attack, you can add a 1d10 fire
Damage to EACH strike if you spend the ki (need to spend 1/hit). That can one shot some boss monsters now and again.

Eventually as you gain levels you attacks will get stronger as well as gaining new effects. You unarmed damage is going to exceed many weapons damage, and you’ll be able to stun or knock prone pretty early on compared to other classes. This is VERY useful.

My gaming group thinks monks are over powered, not underpowered. Our group has between 25 and 30 people spread across 4 tables so we have a good mix of and exposure to pretty much every class and archetype out there.

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dungeon world – Is there a move to increase the level of a hireling’s skill?

Hirelings can change loyalty.

“A hireling’s loyalty may be permanently increased when they achieve some great deed with the players. A significant failure or beating may permanently lower the hireling’s loyalty.”

But is there a mechanic way of leveling up the skills of a hireling or should it just be a soft move by the GM?

Why did the shutter speed increase when I raised ISO and lowered exposure compensation in Aperture Priority mode?

Both of your changes were in the same direction with regard to shutter speed, not in offsetting directions.

Keep in mind that exposure values (EV) with higher numbers are for brighter lighting conditions and require shorter shutter times, narrower apertures, or lower ISO. Exposure values with lower numbers are for dimmer lighting conditions and require longer shutter times, wider apertures, or higher ISO. A lower exposure value results in a brighter image (more exposure!) if the light is the same! When you select a lower EV you increase exposure in constant light. When you select a higher EV you reduce exposure in constant light.

Lower EV’s let more light into the camera to compensate for dimmer lighting conditions. For ISO 100, EV 0 is f/1 at one second, or f/1.4 @ 2 seconds, or f/0.7 @ 1/2 second, etc. For ISO 100, EV 15 is f/16 @ 1/125 seconds, or f/11 @ 1/250, or f/8 @ 1/500, etc. The light needed to get a proper exposure at EV 15 is 2^15 (32,768) times brighter than the light needed to get a proper exposure at EV 0.

Assuming the lighting and the scene remains constant:

  • Raising ISO with no other changes results in a lower EV and a brighter image
  • Lowering ISO with no other changes results in a higher EV and a dimmer image
  • Increasing/lengthening the shutter time with no other changes results in a lower EV and a brighter image
  • Decreasing/shortening the shutter time with no other changes results in a higher EV and a dimmer image
  • Opening the aperture/lowering the f-number with no other changes results in a lower EV and a brighter image
  • Closing the aperture/increasing the f-number with no other changes results in a higher EV and a dimmer image
  • Increasing Exposure Compensation results in a lower EV and a brighter image, but not because the EC number has changed. The real change is the difference in Tv (longer), Av (wider), or ISO (higher) that the camera applies when you enter a higher EC number.
  • Decreasing Exposure Compensation results in a higher EV and a darker image, but not because the EC number has changed. The real change is the difference in Tv (shorter), Av (narrower), or ISO (lower) that the camera applies when you enter a lower EC number.

Consider if you had only made one change at a time:

  • Moving from ISO 3200 at (+1 EC) to ISO 3200 at (0 EC) will result in the shutter time decreasing (getting shorter) from 1/100 to 1/200. You have told the camera you want the exposure to be half as bright. You have raised the EV by one stop without raising the actual brightness of the lighting by one stop. Aperture is the same. ISO is the same. Shutter time is one stop shorter. The image will be one stop dimmer.
  • Moving from ISO 3200 at (0 EC) to ISO 6400 at (0 EC) will result in the shutter time decreasing (getting shorter) from 1/200 to 1/400. You have doubled the sensors amplification, so the camera will halve the shutter time to compensate. You have not changed the EV at all, you’ve swapped sensitivity for exposure time. When you doubled ISO from 3200 to 6400 (brighter by one stop), the camera halved exposure time from 1/200 second to 1/400 second (dimmer by one stop). The two changes offset each other and the image is the same brightness.

Since your camera probably sets exposure in 1/3 stop increments, the 1/3 stop difference between 1/400 and 1/500 second is rounding error. Your initial reading of f/3.5, ISO 1600, 1/100 second could have actually metered somewhere between 1/100 and 1/125 second. Your second reading of f/3.5, ISO 3200, 1/500 second could have actually metered somewhere between 1/400 and 1/500 second. The first meter reading was rounded down slightly to the nearest 1/3 stop. The second meter reading was rounded up slightly to the nearest 1/3 stop.

You said that “Moving from ISO 3200 at (+1 EC) to ISO 3200 at (0 EC) will result in the shutter time decreasing (getting shorter) from 1/100 to 1/200”. That means that going even lower (-1 EC) will result in the shutter time decreasing even further, to 1/400, is that correct?

Yes. If ISO and aperture are unchanged, changing EC from zero to -1 will result in a shutter time half as long. In this case 1/400. You have reduced the amount of light allowed into the camera by one stop. The image will be dimmer.

So then, based on the rest of your answer, the camera will set the same 1/400 shutter value in both these instances: ISO 6400 at (0 EC) and ISO 3200 at (-1 EC)?

Yes, you are correct. If the lighting is unchanged and the meter measures the same amount of light for both readings: If f/3.5, ISO 6400 (0 EC) results in a Tv of 1/400, then f/3.5, ISO 3200 (-1 EC) will also result in a Tv of 1/400. The second image will be one stop dimmer.

There must me something fundamental I’m missing, because to my mind they would be two stops dimmer, not one. First stop because the sensor is less sensitive, the second stop because I told the camera I wanted lower exposure (-1). And that’s also why it’s strange to me that the Tv is the same.

You are shooting in aperture priority. You had the Av set at f/3.5 and the ISO set manually at 6400. The camera computed a Tv of 1/400 second when EC was set to zero. You then changed the ISO from 6400 to 3200 and changed the EC from 0 to -1.

In this instance, you told the camera you wanted one stop lower exposure (by changing EC from 0 to -1). But you had already manually changed the ISO from 6400 to 3200 (-1 stop) yourself, so you had already made the change you needed to get one stop lower exposure with the same Av (f/3.5) and Tv (1/400). The camera recognized that you had changed the ISO (-1 stop) and you had left the Av the same (+/-0 stops) when you told it you wanted one stop darker exposure. That resulted in the same Tv (+/-0): 1/400 second. The net change was one stop darker due to the lower ISO you had already changed.

When you enter a higher exposure compensation number, you are telling the camera you want a brighter image. To get a brighter image, the camera must use a lower exposure value. To get a lower EV, the camera must open the aperture wider, expose for longer, or increase the ISO.

When you enter a lower EC number, you are telling the camera you want a darker image. To get a darker image, the camera must use a higher exposure value. To get a higher EV, the camera must make the aperture narrower, expose for a shorter time, or decrease the ISO.

The only things that determine how bright or dim your image is when the lighting is constant are ISO, Av, and Tv. Exposure compensation (EC) does not tell the camera to change the way it develops the raw file, it only tells the camera that you want the image to be exposed brighter or dimmer and the camera will change Tv, ISO, or Av to expose the image with the brightness you want. If you have manually set the ISO and have manually selected the aperture by shooting in Aperture Priority exposure mode, the only thing left that the camera can calculate is the shutter time. If you have left the aperture unchanged, lowered the ISO by one stop, and then told the camera you want one stop less exposure, there’s nothing left for the camera to change. It will use the same shutter time as before.

dnd 3.5e – Ability increase for extra HD not calculated correctly under the Lycanthrope entry in the Monster Manual?

In the SRD it states:

https://www.d20srd.org/srd/improvingMonsters.htm#abilityScoreImprovement

Ability Score Improvement

Treat monster Hit Dice the same as character level for determining ability score increases. This only applies to Hit Dice increases, monsters do not gain ability score increases for levels they “already reached” with their racial Hit Dice, since these adjustments are included in their basic ability scores.

Meaning that for every 4 hit dice a monster has it gains an ability score improvement of +1 on any one ability score. In the SRD in the monster entry for Lycanthrope under abilities section of the Creating a lycanthrope subsection is stated this:

https://www.d20srd.org/srd/monsters/lycanthrope.htm

All lycanthropes gain +2 to Wisdom. In addition, when in animal form, a lycanthrope’s physical ability scores improve according to its kind, as set out in the table below. These adjustments are equal to the animal’s normal ability scores -10 or -11. A lycanthrope in hybrid form modifies its physical ability scores by the same amount.
In addition, a lycanthrope may also gain an additional ability score increase by virtue of its extra Hit Dice.

A werebear in human form has the following stats:

https://www.d20srd.org/srd/monsters/lycanthrope.htm

Str 13, Dex 11, Con 12, Int 10, Wis 11, Cha 8

And is based upon:

The werebear presented here is a 1st-level human warrior and natural lycanthrope, using the following base ability scores: Str 13, Dex 11, Con 12, Int 10, Wis 9, Cha 8.

Otherwise known as the ‘non elite array’ or ‘low powered campaign / 15 point buy’

The +2 increase to wisdom is the Wisdom bonus that a lycanthrope receives. Where is the +1 ability score increase to a stat from having 4 or more HD? As the statement ‘…monsters do not gain ability score increases for levels they “already reached” with their racial Hit Dice, since these adjustments are included in their basic ability scores.‘ seems to be incorrect because the adjustment has not been included.

Is this a mistake or something I am missing? Incidentally I have checked Cooper’s Compendium Of Corrected Creatures and no mention of this seeming discrepancy may be found in that source which makes me question whether it’s something I’ve forgotten?

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