exposure – Metering red lights in film photography

The L508 is capable of metering both reflective light using its spot meter, as well as incident light, which is done using the white dome.

Although reflective metering is more common (think of light meters built in cameras), they suffer from not being colourblind. A reflective light meter assumes to be ‘looking’ at a middle grey scene. If that scene is instead white, for example, the meter thinks that the middle grey is assumes it is seeing is just very brightly lit, and thus tunes down the exposure. This is the exact reason why, with reflective meters, you want to overexpose by a stop or two when shooting snow or other highly reflective surfaces.

The same problem occurs with colour. Yellow, for example, is a highly reflective and will easily fool a spot meter. The same is true for colours that are not very reflective.

With this in mind, you should be able to see that incident metering is the better option here. Incident meters don’t measure the light that is reflected off of the subject, but they rather measure the light that is falling onto the subject, hereby eliminating the effect colour has on your meter reading.

Since I was not there when you took this photo, I cannot tell you why the face is blown out. I can however suggest a way of metering for this scene. To meter for the highlights, one should face the dome of the light meter directly towards the light source. This needs to be done while holding the meter against or next to the person’s face, as you then measure exactly how much light falls onto the face. As you may know, light intensity decreases as it moves farther from the source. Depending on how you want to expose the scene, you may want to take one or more readings. If you shoot with just the aforementioned reading, you will expose only for the highlights and you will therefore underexpose the midtones and especially the shadows. Personally, I usually take a reading of the shadows and the highlights and take a midpoint depending on my scene and how I want to expose for it. In this case, since the person/face is mostly uniformly lit, I would linger to the side of the highlight reading. Remember however that negative film is more accepting of over- than underexposure. When in doubt, shoot for the shadows rather than the highlights.

pentax – What happens if I press the film rewind button early?

I don’t know about this particular model, but in all my film cameras advancing the film (by pulling the film advance lever) resets the film release lock. Depress shutter with cap on, then advance again. You should see the winder turn, indicating the film is advancing. That should be enough to keep you shooting. (I’m assuming from your post, that you don’t have a motorized drive). You won’t lose the last frame provided you have not rewound the film at all.

EDIT: Corrected as per comment below (whuber)

battery not loading on film on camera

I have a Praktica M60 26mm Glass Lens camera and the battery ran out and i had to change it. when putting in new batteries, it won’t work. any suggestions? i can’t wind the film and it says 0 (backwards C)! help! i’ve tried many different batteries.

sharpness – Is it worth investing in a used 35 mm Film camera?

It certainly is not worth investing in a 35mm film camera for the perceived higher resolution, additional color, or sharpness.

To get results you will likely have to either invest in, or at least have access to a drum scanner that gives you the highest resolution possible right now. Otherwise you will likely be scanning on a flatbed that almost certainly does not produce resolution even near the Canon 60D.

Are you trying to print 24x30inch prints at 360dpi? Sure, grab a 35mm camera, a $20,000 drum scanner, and you may be able to achieve high resolution that would benefit images of this size. You also might not achieve that.

It sounds like the main issue is that you usually end up cropping your images. If this is the case, it sounds like you either need to frame up the subject better before you take the image, or invest in further reaching lenses.

prints – Is a classic analogue printed film photo CMYK?

I’m assuming such as standard analogue Kodak negative film printed to appropriate Kodak paper. Is this anything like CMYK or is it something entirely different?
Is the gamut similar to CMYK even if the process is arrived at from a different direction?

Side question: Does this also apply to slides, positives?

My google-fu has failed me on this, as everything I find relates to ‘modern’ printing from digital to inkjet, giclée, laser etc, so any search I try is buried in modern structures.

printing – Maximum useful resolution for scanning 35mm film

According to Ken Rockwell:

Fuji Velvia 50 is rated to resolve 160 lines per millimeter. This is the finest level of detail it can resolve, at which point its MTF just about hits zero.

Each line will require one light and one dark pixel, or two pixels. Thus it will take about 320 pixels per millimeter to represent what’s on Velvia 50.

320 pixels x 320 pixels is 0.1MP per square millimeter.

35mm film is 24 x 36mm, or 864 square millimeters.

To scan most of the detail on a 35mm photo, you’ll need about 864 x 0.1, or 87 Megapixels.

That’s about 8128 DPI. But in practice, consumer lenses and higher ISO films don’t record that much detail. Scanning more than about 3048 DPI (12.4 MP) usually just increases the visibility of grain. By the time you see grain, you’ve captured as much detail as that particular piece of film is capable of containing.

The above numbers assume a perfect scanner. However, scanners are limited by the resolution of their lenses. So even though a sensor may be capable of 6400 DPI, the lens may only be capable of 3200 DPI or less.

Disc film cameras that use replacable batteries?

I have some Disc Film in the fridge that I would like to use, that I got from a film lot.

It seems unlikely that anything amazing will come out of it, but experimenting is part of my process and some recent results look really cool.

I found a lab that processes it, but I don’t own a Disc camera. They seem to cost a dime a dozen on second-hand marketplaces, however, I recall from using one in the past that the batteries are usually not removable by the user, to save space and make a thin camera (they are welded inside the body) – and therefore, batteries from this period might have ran out of juice or become damaged if I just bought any such model.

Given that over 30 different manufacturers made cameras that use disc film, I wonder if some of them were smart enough to design them to use regular, removable batteries.

These types of cameras are very under-documented across the internet.

Are there Disc film cameras that use regular removable batteries?

canon – Analog film camera not taking multiple pictures

I have recently purchased a Canon Sure Shot AF-7 which appears to be in excellent condition. However, when I do not have film in it the shutter, flash etc. works perfectly well but after loading the film the camera does not allow me to take more than 1 picture.
Although after some experimenting I have discovered that I can take 1 picture, take the batteries out, put the batteries back in and then take another picture.
I am unsure if this could be an issue with the batteries as the recommended batteries are AA Ni-cd batteries (not very common anymore) but I am using 2 AA rechargeable batteries.

Any idea what could be giving me this problem?

film – How would I manually compensate +1 stop on my light meter using the ISO setting?

I am new to film photography and just wanted to double check something I am confused about.

So imagine I am using a fully manual film camera with an older light meter in the cold shoe. No exposure compensation feature so I need to do this manually. I attach a yellow filter over the lens, which I need to compensate +1 stop for.

So if my film ISO is 100, before metering and taking pictures with my camera, shouldn’t I dial in 50 ISO on my light meter to compensate for that +1?

That way I don’t have to meter and remember to constantly change the aperture or shutter speed by +1?


Ricoh YF-20 film loading issue

I recently purchased a second-hand Ricoh YF-20. I loaded the film as best I could, shut the back door and loaded the 2 AA batteries. Immediately, a load motor sound came from the camera and the film did not begin to wind up. I’m wondering if this is an issue with the motor, the film loading mechanism or something else. I looked at the user manual and I couldn’t find anything to help with this issue. I’m also wondering if I can fix this by myself or if I will need to bring it in to have it serviced. Thanks in advance!