lightroom catalog – Mac ~Library/Caches/Adobe Camera Raw: Ok to delete?

It depends on how you have set the preferences in your particular system.

We do not know how you have set the preference for what is stored in that folder.

Is it all the metadata for all your raw files?

I do not know enough about what the default settings would be to advise you. But i do know enough to not delete things until i understand them. (learned the hard way)

If you do not know enough about how your system is set up then you should not go deleting things until you learn how and why it set up the way it is.

EDIT: I checked my Adobe Camera Raw Cache folder and it’s size is 1.07 GB, all files have a .dat file extension.

A web search lead me to the following discussion.

What are ACR cached .dat files? Delete them?.

As others have said you CAN delete them BUT if you do when you go to a
folder in Bridge that has RAW images in it Bridge/ARC will just
recreate them. Those files are created so Bridge can display RAW
camera files. Deleting them will save you some space on your drive BUT
it will also cost you some time for Bridge/ARC to recreate them when
you go back to look at these images.

Personally I have my Bridge/ARC cache set to 4 GB. Of course I have
tons of unused space on my hard drives.

camera – Terrain does not show up in distance in play mode, but does in editor

I’m trying to make a big landscape with high mountains but the terrain doesn’t show in the distance in play mode.

Which settings should I change, or what can I do?

My terrain is divided in many pieces – do I have to change all of these terrains or is there any other option?

canon – Can I use a EF lens with a EF-S camera?

The short answer to your question is yes, an EF lens can be used on a crop-sensor (EF-S) Canon camera.

The longer answer is that EF-S lenses are designed for crop-sensor lenses, the ‘s’ denotes a smaller image circle, but it’s otherwise a compatible mount. So, lenses designed for full frame (EF) will also work on your camera.

Going the other way, however, does not work, period. Some of the EF-S lenses protrude into the body and so for full frame cameras that would cause the mirror to come into contact and get damaged, but even if they do not, they can’t be used.

unity – Photon2 billboards take a long time to face the camera

I’m using PUN2 and trying to use nametag billboards for my players, but they are not facing forward correctly and I have to wait more than 20 seconds to make the name tag of player return to facing forward.

here’s my code for my BillBoard Script:

public class BillBoard : MonoBehaviour
    protected Transform ThisCameraPlayerBillBoard ;

    private void Start()
        ThisCameraPlayerBillBoard = GameSetup.GS.ThisCameraToBillBoard.GetComponent<Camera>().transform;


    private void FixedUpdate()
        transform.LookAt(transform.position + ThisCameraPlayerBillBoard .rotation * Vector3.forward,
            ThisCameraPlayerBillBoard .rotation * Vector3.up);

canon – Affordable camera for a macro photography

Which cheap camera fits better for taking a macro photos of static objects: PCB boards, electronic chips, various small hardware? Basically, the camera will be fixed on a copy stand. I’m considering Sony CyberShot DSC-W800 vs Canon IXUS 185. These are very similar models, although Canon IXUS 185 seems to be a little newer. Which from them has a better sensor?

Do I need a copy stand to digitize negatives with a Sony Mirrorless Camera

I want to digitize negatives with a Sony mirrorless camera. Do I need a copy stand?

How do I select a fixed lens for my APS-C sensor camera for a specific field of view/zoom

50mm is 50mm.

Your 16-50mm lens has actual focal lengths ranging from 16-50mm. That gives an angle of view on your APS-C camera of a 16-50mm lens on an APS-C camera, which is also the “equivalent” angle of view given by a 24-75mm on a FF camera.

When your 16-50mm APS-C lens is zoomed to 50mm on your APS-C camera, you get the angle of view of a 50mm lens on an APS-C camera. That’s the same angle of view you’d get using a 75mm lens on a FF camera.

When a 50mm FF lens is used on your APS-C camera, you get the angle of view of a 50mm lens on an APS-C camera. It’s the same angle of view as you get using a 50mm APS-C lens on your APS-C camera. The only time you need to worry about conversion factor is if you want to get the same angle of view using a different sensor size.

The larger image circle of the FF lens doesn’t spread the same angle of view over a larger image circle, it provides a wider angle of view over a larger image circle. The center 28mm diameter portion of the FF lens’ image circle shows the same thing as the entire 28mm wide image circle cast by the APS-C lens. The extra 8mm on either side of the larger image circle shows things that are outside of the smaller image circle’s coverage. But the center 28mm of both lenses’ image circles show the exact same thing.¹

ANY 50mm lens, either made for APS-C cameras or FF cameras, will give you the same 50mm angle of view on the same 1.5X APS-C camera. This will be the same angle of view that one would get using a 75mm lens on a FF sensor. You only need to get a 75mm lens if you’re also going to change to a FF camera and want the same angle of view that you get with your 50mm lens on your APS-C camera.

¹ This is assuming both lenses are actually the same focal length, use the same projection, and share the same geometric distortion characteristics. In practice, one 50mm lens may actually be 48mm and another 50mm lens may be 52mm in focal length. Both would be marketed as 50mm lenses.

How do i keep the image size proportionate after camera size change

Basically, I want to keep an image the same size on the screen maximized as it would be minimized. Is there any way to do this without a script?

not maximized

How to change camera access?

I have a inbuilt camera and i want to change camera access for Ubuntu! In windows i can simply go to privacy > Camera and turn access off! but How to do it in Ubuntu?

autofocus – How do I diagnose the source of focus problem in a camera?

Since you ask a pretty general question I am going to try for a general answer, as this question is asked probably more than any other single question in many forums.

To figure out the issues you must become a bit of a detective. First, gather all the information you can. Among the things you should try to get are:

Lots and lots of samples, as one bad shot is very hard to diagnose in isolation. Then look for patterns in them, among such issues as below.

Failure to acquire focus will usually result in some area of the image being in focus, while desired areas are not. Look close at the background and foreground (grass and other textured surfaces are a good place to look). If you find a specific area in focus (but not the one you want), you can (mostly) eliminate vibration or motion issues.

Look for motion. For subjects, see if stationary subjects (or ones that match your panning) are in focus while others are not. Look for smearing – does the blur you see seem directional – looking at points and lines in different orientation will help you. If you see a consistent smearing in one direction, that is most likely motion of the subject or the camera.

It is worth noting that motion blur can be difficult to see, especially camera shake. It might just appear as a blur. Also do some tests with support – tripod, monopod, bean bag – whatever is appropriate. Take some shots with a timer so your hand is not even involved. See if these result in less blur than your hands.

Carefully looking at the two issues above will usually help distinguish failing to acquire focus from motion blur.

Another cause is equipment vs. expectations. It is always worth getting a perfectly in-focus shot with your equipment so you know what it can do. Cameras with live view are easiest – put it on a tripod, use a zoomed-in live view image to focus very carefully in manual mode for a stationary object, and take a shot. Take a few. You must use live view, never the viewfinder to focus, as live view is the real sensor data. Because this eliminates the auto-focus mechanism all issues of back/front focus and such are eliminated. If the resulting shots are not clear (and you have been careful), suspect your expectations are not aligned with your equipment. Be sure to check multiple lenses, with and without filters (I often see really cheap, poor filters on really nice lenses). Know what your equipment can do, to judge against what it does routinely.

Metering and light can be an issue but would be at the bottom of my list for concerns. Really high ISO shots will be blurred a bit by noise, and conceivably you may be in an area too dark for your AF mechanism to work. But frankly you would likely already know that, the effects are not that subtle. White balance and exposure per se has no real affect on focus.

Post processing can also be an issue. Some people will shoot raw, and then apply no sharpening at all. Most DSLR’s need some level of sharpening just to reach “normal”. Experiment a bit, if you post process, with sharpening settings, and if not with the in-camera controls. But again, I would put this closer to the last things to worry about.

Now… where you go from here depends on what you find. Probably (sadly) you will find some of all of these issues, since humans are involved as well as imperfect equipment. But gather a lot of data and see which area you most need to work on, then research it, or ask about it, with some specifics. I cannot begin to address each possible cause in one answer as my fingers will wear out.

But… you will be continually frustrated (especially when asking for help) if you just use a shot at a time, as there are so many possibilities. You need to be aggressive at experimentation and collecting samples to see where the patterns are. Since you cannot go back and time and fix any one photo, your goal should be to figure out where your most prevalent problem lies, and fixing it by changing what you do, then move on to the next.